We have come across many decks with trapped debris in between the boards. It is important to keep the airflow in between the board to inhibit dry rot and fungus.

Wood decks need to have enough spacing between the boards for adequate airflow to reduce incidence of trapped moisture. If the boards are too tight moisture will be trapped when the wood swells causing dry rot and fungus over time. Adequate spacing between the wood boards is 1/16 to ¼ inch and a good deck contractor will take this in consideration when constructing a deck. Boards clogged with dirt, leaves and other debris will retain moisture causing problems in the future.  The homeowner should keep the boards free of debris by simple cleaning and general deck maintenance in the spring and fall.   Use a putty knife or some other flat narrow tool to run in between the boards to loosen any debris.

Deck Cleaning and Sealing

I had been called recently to examine a deck in San Francisco. The homeowner inquired whether just using an environmental safe cleanser formulated for redwood deck was all that necessary for deck maintenance.

I explained to the homeowner that cleaning the deck is the first step. However they need to use a high quality non toxic stain/sealer to protect wood from environmental element. In San Francisco the weather can vary from sunny and warm to foggy and damp. These fluctuations can be harsh on the wood. The wood can be damaged by UV rays from exposure to sunlight. The wood can
expand and contract from changes in temperature and humidity. The stain will protect the wood from UV damages and the sealer will protect from rain and damp conditions.

In San Francisco, your deck may be your backyard! So it is important for proper maintenance to extend the deck’s life.

Deck stains

Deck stain reviews, Deck refinishing

Choosing the right stain for your deck can make your life easier. There are so many brands on the market, it’s very confusing to differentiate which stain sealer will hold better. The “Consumer Reports” did some testing in the past, and it’s very helpful. Deck contractors have preference of one product over another. I believe that a good prep work matters as much as choosing the right product. Most of us here in the grand San Francisco Bay area have redwood decks, however, different types of wood such as IPE wood, and composite decking have become more popular. Right now, let’s examine redwood decks:
Redwood is a soft wood, which making it easy for the wood to absorb the stain. However not all stain/sealer have the same quality. My experience with Penofin was not great with redwood, however their product for IPE, Comaru, and other dense wood was one of the bests sealer. Other stains such as, Behr at Home Depot and CWF didn’t do well. The latter has better looking semi transparent colors. Cabot did in my opinion better than the others so far, please note that Cabot has an oil base product and a water base Cabot SPF. The latter is very tricky, in a way, you have to sand the deck to bare wood, and to apply two coats of stains. At this time I’m testing the latest stains on the market, I will have a better idea by June of this year.

After one year of exposure, Cabot SPF was holding the best,  followed by Wolman Dura stain, then super deck came in third.  People who elect to do the work themselves, should sand the deck to bare wood, or strip down completely old stain from deck surface, then use a wood brightener, before they apply the stain.

The application of the product should be done preferably in the shade. Cabot SPF requires sanding for good adhesion. This year I started using Behr top of the line semi transparent (it’s rated 6years on decks), realistically if the sealer holds for 3 years or so, I will be happy with it. I will keep you posted if I come across something new. Meanwhile, please let us know what your experience with deck refinishing products in our blog.

Bay Area Deck Refinishing Tips

Spring is around the corner.  Although here in the Bay Area, recent rain has kept people indoors your deck should be prepared for the upcoming season.  Pay attention to the condition of the wood.  Wood needs proper care and maintenance.  Look for any soft areas on the boards, railings and support.  Soft area in the wood is indicative of dry rot.  This is damaged wood and will get worse with time.  Dry rot wood needs to be removed by replacing the section affected. Dry rot can occur anywhere on the wood.  It can be obvious on the top surface or in the deck support and joist. If the deck is low to the ground and the under support is not accessible; you can prod the boards and underlying support with a putty knife to feel for any soft soft spots.  In communities with homes built on a hillside such as; Lafayette, Orinda, Danville, Martinez, Walnut Creek, and Alamo in Contra County and Oakland and Berkeley Hills in Alameda County, and Tiburon, Belvedere, Mill Valley, San Rafael, Sausalito, in Marin County, the deck underside should be looked at for any dry rot.
If you have any doubts whether the deck needs to be fixed or repaired call All Pro Deck at one of the following numbers:
925-283-2133
510-655-5549
415-388-8842
408-297-2133

Restore life to old deck Refinishing can make it new again

THE PLANKS OF wood had turned a shade of beaten-down gray. Dark circular stains stamped where the potted flowers stood. Even a light rain shower left the backyard deck soaked for hours.
We needed no further evidence. Our deck was begging for a face lift.
In the past, my husband has tackled restoring our massive back deck,
complete with attached bench, lattice, beams and an overhang.
His know-how and skill were never in question. But that didn’t make the work any less time consuming or back-breaking. So, this time, he agreed to turn the job over to a professional.
Four bids and several reference checks later, we signed a contract with All Pro Painting and Deck Restoration of Walnut Creek and Oakland. The cost difference among bid estimates was marginal.
For our approximately 600-square-foot deck, plus all the extras, the initial contract was for $2,320. What sold us on All Pro Painting was a matter of personal preference. We liked the Cabot woodcare products it uses.  And as we quickly discovered, deck refinishing is about a lot of choices.
All deck restorations start with a good scrubbing. Simply sweeping and hosing down the deck are not enough.
David Thompson of California Paints has written extensively about problems with thefinish coating used on wood decks.
“Ultraviolet rays of the sun break down lignin (wood’s natural glue) producing loose surface wood fibers in as little as one to two months,” he explains. “These fibers represent surface contamination that is as detrimental to adhesion as dirt, chalk, mold, mildew or other loose
material.”  Those fibers can be cleaned by scrubbing with a stiff-bristled brush, pressure washing or by hand or mechanical abrasion, Thompson says.
Decks by Woodmasters, which serves central Contra Costa and Marin counties, uses high-pressure water to clean the deck. Woodmasters then sands the deck to remove old stain and sprays a fungicide to protect against mold and mildew.
Corey Persky, co-owner of Woodmasters, says they choose power washing because it allows them to reach the underside of the deck’s boards.
“Power washing gets deep into the wood,” he adds. “Surface cleaning is like a woman using a Buff
Puff to take off makeup. This is a deep clean that gets under the stains and oils that have penetrated the wood.”
All Pro Painting doesn’t power wash. Instead, owner Al Ismaili completely sands the deck to its bare wood, then uses a specially formulated deck cleaner. A cleaner can remove mildew, mold,
algae, deep-imbedded dirt, nailhead rust stains and the discoloration caused by tannin, the dark stains which are common on redwood and cedar decks. Ismaili says he prefers an approach that combines sanding and a formulated cleaner.
“With pressure washing, the problem is that you’re not getting the stain completely off,” he says. “If you look at the grain in redwood, it has some hard and soft spots and you can gouge the wood
if you pressure wash. Sanding takes more time, but your deck will have a longer life and better look.”
Potentially gouging wood is why Persky advises homeowners not to attempt power washing as a do-it-yourself project.
“I know from experience, you can do serious damage — splintering, gouging, basically ruining the wood,” Persky says. “I know because I did it years and years ago.” The deck’s old coating, whether varnished, stained or painted, needs to be removed before
applying a new coating. Lowes’ “Deck Treatments Buying Guides” notes that stripping is especially important if you are changing the color because the new top coating may appear different in areas where residual coating remains underneath. Color bleeding is also possible.
Both All Pro Painting and Woodmasters sand the deck back to its bare wood. Sanding can help open up the wood’s pores, so the new coating absorbs better, Persky says.
The other option is to start with a formulated wood stripper. A stripper loosens the old finish residue, making it easier to rinse off the deck with a power washer or hand scrubbing. Most decks require only one application, but thick residual stains and paints may need an additional coating.
Wood strippers are formulated for the type of coating on your deck (oil-base, water-base, latex, etc.) After stripping and rinsing the deck, a wood brightener is used to neutralize the stripper.
Here’s the part you’ll see — clear solution, oil, stain or paint.
Although the deck will look better after cleaning, especially if using a brightener, applying a new finish is a must. This top coating sealer is the deck’s protective barrier.
“You can tell the difference, after just a few weeks if you put two boards under sunlight, one with sealer and one without,” Ismaili explains. “An unprotected board cracks in the sun. Sometimes it
will cup. When the board is sealed, water beads up and can’t penetrate the wood. You won’t get dry rot.”
ry rot is decay caused by fungus that significantly weakens the wood.

Choosing a finish can be overwhelming because of the number of products and types available.
The best ones should repel water and block the ultraviolet (UV) rays that age and fade the wood’snatural color.
-Water repellents come in clear or tinted. They prevent moisture from being absorbed into the
wood.
-Clear solutions offer a layer of protection that brings out the wood’s natural color, but because many contain no pigment, they offer limited UV protection.
-Semi-transparent oil-based stains help restore and retain the deck’s natural color. It goes on thicker so it may take longer to dry; most products recommend applying only one coat. Most of these products last two to three years.

-Semi-transparent water-based stains are like oil-based except they are a thinner coat. That means they may dry faster and a second coat can be applied.
-Opaque or solid deck stains and paints are often used to mask decks with poor quality wood and uneven appearances. Deck experts warn that solid stains and paints wear and weather more quickly than clear and semi-transparent, so they likely would need to be reapplied every year.
They are also very difficult to reverse.
“A lot of people who buy houses that have paint on the deck want it removed,” Persky says. “We have to sand and strip that off. It’s very tedious and very expensive.”

These finishes are best reserved for vertical structures, such as rails and columns, that aren’t subjected to foot traffic.
Not liking our home disrupted by home improvement projects, my husband and I wanted something that would last as long as possible.

All Pro Painting offered us the four-year plan.
Ismaili introduced us to Cabot’s S.P.F. Deck and Fence Finish, a natural
wood-toned finish with built-in water sealer. The company says its
“revolutionary” coating can be applied a few hours after rain or surface
cleaning. (Most products recommend waiting 24 to 48 hours.)
Best yet, it comes in three shades and three pigment tones. The
maximum pigment can last as long as 48 months.
At $36 a gallon, the product is costly, especially since it takes two coats.
Initially, we decided to apply this finish to the deck planks and beams
and use a less expensive but closely matched color stain on the rails,
lattice and overhang.
But after Ismaili applied samples of both to one of our railings, we quickly decided it was worth an extra $150 to use the S.P.F. finish on the entire deck. (That bumped our grand total to $2,470.) Smart move. Less than four days later, the deck looked practically brand new.
Reach Ann Tatko-Peterson at 925-952-2614 or atatko@bayareanewsgroup.com.
c2007 ANG Newspapers. Cannot be used or repurposed without prior written permission.
Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved.

Ann Tatko-Peterson “Hit the deck! How do you start when it’s time to refinish?”. Oakland Tribune. Aug
25, 2007. FindArticles.com. 29 May. 2008.
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qn4176/is_20070825/ai_n19491231

A Like-New Look for an Aging Deck

ONE of the most popular gathering places around the house when summer arrives is not inside the home itself but outside, on the deck or terrace.
And whether that deck or terrace is made of ordinary treated wood, exotic hardwood, cedar, redwood or one of the new composite
materials, it will look better and last longer with regular maintenance.
“Most decks are severely neglected,” said Danny Lipford, host of the nationally syndicated home improvement television show “Today’s Homeowner.” “Every deck needs to be cleaned at least once a year, and now is the time to do it.” Start with a deck detergent — available at home centers and hardware stores — mix it according to the instructions and apply it with a garden-style sprayer, Mr. Lipford said. “Saturate the entire deck, let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes to loosen up the dirt, and then use a stiff brush or pressure washer to clean off all the dirt and grime.” Be careful with a pressure washer, he advised, because using too much pressure or
holding the tip too close can gouge the wood.
Once the detergent has been thoroughly rinsed away, he said, allow the deck to dry for two or three days before applying a stain or sealer. If you want to change the color of the deck, a semi-transparent stain should go on next, Mr. Lipford said.
The sealer, which waterproofs the wood and protects it from sun damage, can be applied after the stain dries. “I recommend putting a clear sealer on it,” Mr. Lipford said. “That will darken the wood just slightly. And apply two coats, one on one day, and the other on the next.”
Dave MacAusland, the owner of Sun Frog, a deck restoration company in Portland, Ore., adds a few more steps before sealing.
After cleaning the deck with a detergent, he uses an “intermediate brightener” and then a product called Born Again to restore the color. When the deck is dry, he applies a penetrating oil that dries to a hard finish to seal and protect the wood. (His company’s products are available at sunfrog.com.) Wash Safe Industries, in Harwich, Mass., makes what it calls an environmentally safe deck cleaner. John Redihan, the company’s owner, said that Wash Safe, which uses foam produced by hydrogen peroxide to lift mold and mildew out of the wood, is nontoxic, will not harm plants or lawns and biodegrades after about six hours. It is available at wash-safe.com.

In its July issue, Consumer Reports singles out a few other deck sealers as being effective: Flood Solid Color Deck & Siding Stain, Sikkens Cetol SRD, McCloskey Storm Coat Deck, Fence & Siding Stains, Thompson’s WaterSeal Deck & House and True Value Woodsman Deck & Siding Stain.
To clean decks or terraces made of exotic woods like ipe, mahogany, teak or
ironwood, Al Ismaili, the owner of All Pro Painting and Deck Restoration in San Francisco, recommends a mop and a solution of water and mild soap, like dish detergent.
And when cleaners fail to bring a deck back to life, it may be time for more drastic steps.
Three years ago, Kathy Boston of Oakland, Calif., added a redwood deck to her home.
After about a year, the deck started to lose its “like-new” look, Ms. Boston said, so she had it power washed and stained. Dissatisfied with the result, she hired another contractor to redo the work. “Then it started peeling, cracking and turning dark brown,” she said.
Finally, Ms. Boston called Mr. Ismaili’s company.
“We sanded down the whole deck, applied a cleaner and brightener, put on the best stain we could find, a couple of boards at a time, wiped it down, sealed it and let it dry,” Mr. Ismaili said.
The work was not simple or inexpensive — about $4 a square foot for the entire process, Mr. Ismaili said. “It’s almost like refinishing a piece of furniture.”

But Ms. Boston is, at last, happy with the result.
“It’s unbelievable,” she said. “It looks like the original deck.”